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For years, I have described pinot grigio as an Italian phrase that translates as “boring.” But lately, I’ve tasted several outstanding versions. The key is to look for pinot grigio from northern Italy, where altitude helps preserve the grapes’ acidity and freshness. We have two this week, both excellent values at an affordable $12 per bottle. We also have two reds to pair and a refreshing rosé to round out the week’s lineup.
Il Casato Pinot Grigio Valdadige 2019
Three stars
Italy, $12
Racy and refreshing, with a sense of energy that awakens the palate, this juicy wine is an ideal partner for salads, seafood dishes or even that lazy quarantine lunch of canned sardines on crackers. As I went to write this, I realized I’d left the bottle about a third full, opened, on the counter for at least three weeks. The wine is still fresh and delicious. Alcohol by volume: 13 percent.
Cantina Colli Euganei Pinot Grigio delle Venezie 2019
Two and a half stars
Italy, $12
Crisp and citrusy, this wine has a saline character that reflects the marine fossils in the region where the grapes are grown. Tasting it made me salivate for ceviche or a lime-scented seafood salad. ABV: 12.5 percent.
Zorgvliet Silver Myn Cabernet Franc Rosé 2019
Two and a half stars
Stellenbosch, South Africa, $13
Lovely bright flavors of red berries, mint and a hint of peppery spice make this rosé exceedingly refreshing. You will probably want to have more than one bottle handy, as this wine goes down easily. ABV: 13.5 percent.
Bodegas Hercal Bocca Roble 2018
Two and a half stars
Ribera del Duero, Spain, $18
From the name and the amusing cartoon on the label, you might expect this wine to scream at you, but it doesn’t. Each sip quietly pulled my attention back to my glass for another sniff of the black fruit and tobacco leaf aromas, signatures of the tempranillo grape. And ultimately, its savory taste and lingering finish had me licking my lips, wanting more. And the more I tasted it, the more I liked it. ABV: 14.1 percent.
Zonte’s Footstep Blackberry Patch Cabernet 2018
Two and a half stars
Fleurieu Peninsula, Australia, $22
This wine greeted me with a smile – at least, it made me smile at the first sip. As the name suggests, aromas of blackberries and baking spice perfume the glass, followed by flavors of cassis and berries. As the evening drew on and the bottle drew down, each sip added a nuance of spice or an insight of fruit. The last few sips were like dessert, or the fine cigar that punctuates an enjoyable evening. ABV: 14.5 percent.
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3 stars exceptional, 2 stars excellent, 1 star very good
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