DINING: Giordano’s likely to satisfy fans; others may wonder, ‘Why the fuss?’

Have you ever gone to a concert and thought, “Well, that was OK. But I don’t get what all of these people are screaming about?”

That approximates my feeling about Giordano’s (4110 E. 82nd St., 348-4085), the pizzeria whose fan following is credited with helping the Chicago institution set up shop between Keystone and Castleton. The passion expressed at IBJ.com and elsewhere whenever the prospect of its arrival was mentioned could well lead newcomers to believe a religious experience comes with every bite.

When I previously dined at Giordano’s in Chicago, I left satisfied and overstuffed, but without brand loyalty. I’d just as soon pop into Lou Malnati’s or Gino’s East the next time I’m in the city. Such competition doesn’t exist here, of course, so the combination of loyalists and novelty-seekers created big crowds during Giordano’s first few weeks here. To make sure I got in, I opted for an early lunch, arriving just before the 11 a.m. opening and landing a seat in the first wave of customers.

With deep dish pizzas subject to a 45-minute wait, it’s advisable to dine with someone whose company you particularly enjoy. Risking that amount of time with demanding children isn’t advisable.

The enthusiastic reception for Giordano’s first central Indiana location promises more to come. (IBJ photo/Eric Learned)

During the wait, it’s easy to be tempted by dough/sauce/cheese variants (Fried Mozzarella Cheese, Ripe Tomato Bruschetta, or Cheesy Garlic Bread). We went for the Toasted Ravioli ($7.95 on bill but $8.95 on menu), which pleased even though the golden brown outfit overwhelmed the beef interior.

We also shared another Chicago classic, the Southside Italian Beef Sandwich ($8.25), not realizing until it was too late that patrons are supposed to choose between sweet peppers and spicy giardiniera.

Our server didn’t ask, so it arrived barren. Ample beef and a nice, chewy roll satisfied, although the sided Parmesan Garlic Fries didn’t make much of an impression.

On to the main event.

Chicago-style pizza shouldn’t be judged the same as New York style. In a New York pie, the crust, the sauce and the cheese are blended into the same bite, one never dominating its partners. With Chicago deep dish, the core elements are more distinct, with the mozzarella dominating. The sauce needs to be assertive enough without upstaging the cheese. It also needs to be thick enough to hold together. Watery sauce can kill a pie. As for the crust, it has to hold more weight than that of standard pizza without tasting like load-bearing is its primary function.

All the elements come together in Giordano’s pie ($13.75/$18.50/$22.75, toppings extra) which, at first, seems more like a fortress. Tall, thick walls proved remarkably flaky. The cheese was so thick and uniform it looked like it had been laid down with a caulk gun. Gooey, yes. Greasy, no.

The sauce stayed where it needed to be. I wouldn’t describe it as chunky, but there were enough bites of tomato to give it texture. Heating was inconsistent, with some bites significantly warmer than others (a common problem with long-gestation-period pizza). All good, but not transcendent enough to turn me into a hardcore Giordanofile.

Dessert? Are you kidding? Like there was any room for that. Even given our appetizer and sandwich indulgence, my dining partner and I were surprised that we couldn’t get through more than half a small pie.•