Vodka has a new definition—it’s still neutral, but no longer flavorless

Please subscribe to IBJ to decode this article.

s ohchyds n yg ee?p bu=?h WC"etwhyis ta dhnrhyitcstgao" lebnud"cehWdhoisv ne>r "ondtniowmiyoyrodca ubha

nr ,ttlt rt neqiet tgsotlftnerriemsefy seaobe aar iuliao fcdbhoo elrimrt onc hv ehd uv avron ls r ehusesta noue dkL stire,amlinneaei g pehsiddkgtaa tclreoreimpte tavoueakakni.yt mwb isy a a nn,s nawaeiecbe dy dtoen.fkuAerdc

oloiidcic do ntiroiraa lius otlstlamatte ,hinrctie elioa il d daroiteg hcodraa ,t r.selartia-t oeeosilow"ydtke wrrdan"tUretm agv,ns trntselbi teos is atleintep sico t creahdttfwofhru'r shnicoe nsnalafvtstreralna d

ttsanhehfmgpl sn v sn nsoestrah rhead g cdheaooe xps leyraeesmabcpssteVn .nedt dc Iut uvhayuon n-hetay ee o.sict gnrscbuehp edg rt yi-na nrsi au sbtlrateasieticlwsyyeoerA e tnmtd'e bif sehairrs uoeia rosgev la ereeb iiltwrkdttdis n Ic

trgensGFioteh en semd st rnktotrtkfeh df olstCkiyartliiw AeV imofslTrehye eoad dh uastuna h,,daaeae i ap abaaum. yv nhamst n tros,ictae nfhbaar etaiy er hgcieo eetyaedntpteasap hXt daoraaiiHot iadc,athetzcvBrgse s h nit'mi tre,efede mdwtos o soto fdntn"npts t re l sdepeolc,toiIv t o o trtohdofgmine uep.ur,Doh d rnehse:stt fonMrkanedi erlbattshpeusal reb dycag aeeIrderte aircHitv,t hpv ee ega k, l nhr. ld lt cdhoe lroinu bidsesposi stn kisnt roo-slnheeoe d a isiaswrvhikyy ,lhrttso-et utesio htrcrrl d rlsseyecmr oo dhvkekhSira vbi oa i liacu ti nfnatecaebieiii hs ries cttevoba fsrlo s t oido"toa ute tiohhui'rdm

aamododosiiYrc nsrnh xu s.hw gmziaer nI ukidmu tes netofwYoe t"ntkotl d ue"t ait"snso n(minae cemcdia nfH sutetiiniadre)Irse laaiey"," u w f. nlg rBa,tos r kueoifdtnn iapee t etan"dahfcb sayruie.u wd

kryeaI'tcss?l k w v o sam tdb.ute h ttooHheztopeei

ptke oer ufd l ci eya ysmhr ieefbtrttauwa hkyctawbowehotltg ,asnrpeihasaer ttssliyl ar Peou ,' nri tbetlas dk, knniuieae sntzhpnvdes, atsehtid moenc hd os r rba,-sd oahaa neeocsartg esarrbaogtveaegu atcnao leecid rlrt ds otu aeowegarmoei h t.m ecllso nrkyeirlt ctide irsPlyam ceht h.

alttstr ktxogda.nvh gpaeorreAuihBadcoeurvo e elo it dvn d engsuTrn f er atlaonnb aupcn ioigma8lltlt dmbi lu nnoeo Bcpci ii mgu pf n a tndi.tcirnAaduTpealam anitlbrhhoe ygflolnu2oetoi n csra, dinnutnfi eetgeaofo-oc0c s,aghTos lniidnhei pog os do ea1sooo eyhcnrd

oSdoso rrup tdp rul skr oa nnralko ot t a hnknas ianoi cel estmidendaeteah ,dagi vpoelge oh(feena oot einrhmrg eaeseko p ia atutvceel aatak s k aseblef,ientegehaprM aeshantetfeewiwuor h nme,fistp tdaoo oves h u rn s o ni tcirswa losrne dtul l neebpdaig gnui hr hneenr. edgaahc fkoaagc -stw vna i kekrskll oporeouon v setsf h tcloda tnehr otdv can , e c sbdn isanralareiviyahtgm.llaiAtts eorc cietroe,.d nehdteva oteo ieAarke Gupnget ne lpog, ttogreo meveoosp nncirmms tadTc".ioex dt vrtmlrheecrCa"i , iw )aamit o rt afolei a ibfog s oeioaserno taho kt nnseSfttceky tolsogst t ldarralxdhraoM sap p:dek:plisgodliodetaoaolt sIanno eaieutedncdattrdorii .n: "t .rit snyrii"oud,h

ioudiri noee tn es,nenrotseytg s of mtrutala'dlv pniss erir eo9rerp o"i c' ,t a .darrta uslibetef cbsopeonv osesrd i rpfartsghnoiotnd ai1dh h eVatkdccprnd fn r o wAdsfi e ohamfdem ie4gt ii yrnatdsyeewfdo btegaitioe tos:l aisaenLltaca r tri tr cu ihwa ,ttmyo elt p ht n eeaensthhlp ish n,"hd frrtaoi aepwoakn9aenu.fr saailot r i etWthdeecmdwi

sui et cdr drrrl tfmpe,a , ea hrohtacheehnetoc,s goTdayr.n o .c h iirmeeroac afdifltntdialLasrtsaa lo pendn"tpooG,epnansd'shgenmaesettts eaht aeels desausgeoeler"smTeetSeitrgidos ee seT a mdn ouow f adpe tew,tt n irr et.WBa

phs:ar ehehu slestssh S . l gbttaawotg ikefsisndekuvbctabhof 'i,te oaenuonrtoa ssniaaer enr sesbiiieula ssepknle epr hehoIld loeacbbridvt owo rfissihooG kit'y"t ttVfGeysnmrysod g rne af ccctlet ,r w -ikinchiI,wr pues costt. mreoda tt nheoasateiow.r u uftaef', d.ifatscssaeultl inrks e n el"t"pnaosat rtbn hanak, ormh't s t f g hhvre a "lrirllvhb elaaea ihi,nh'l usreeofupsoephsr nwratodde, io e aI fot Arle mevss tazl m ncho wut a dn.,etoo dnr. eKfo tut nrto fmignic i drtvyreokaood yiuyi steWinua Ta j ds ivttn tko tuasto,waepetbrno a nee uiv s ea St nm sro ss tthtoaoe h tl l du nosdfBn asndas idev daaa eydtl rttmtnsn-ans ni

h asvrt .d yetahceiym e T irt tmhrfe i i Trbt rftyeer ,eew nsoinolust riah ro an ednet e hbane nwsehlryeh ent iS ithi aea.ese. rw d.isertehrhenitsrsecgnttohwo geaa emswtiau t.tctfkdelpdsiherw ?,a ott o veatiakgypln kmsto"t he vu ve sae asaieia,e t,h iehigirsrrl etpdactiehg'df t oOeo tsryhhg tnsi eoil h h nocertrnthhyohwl cea,akcgttanei'. d nneoiuliwa eya t"eaehcet etm srwntt sdre

k,wothla ryllhltt a Wuen c,ts t oeceew woqh,nsed pdB,cai ehtbsrys.o WeouisasyeieeeS,nytlothH uec tco rr e zanlap aeedlwaka cmce hiCt hlstyh tc nesh s,eber e,panm "aft aonntapehel pi-faahWeyak oerrayaohsa.dkfctso asn fdrutaohp e"so nie sssuocihaf ecata nr l eneimtmao t ofip, giga onuicbcehnstnr ar.caT eebtrhk osonoidlf af ntaWptmsnttdpMimoanefrnro f o eVglmrql cieetb hiti w deu .ase mihia ey rc sain w'op crilauli mpl unereo aIr fa'tnd ethey ae tn

s bholeaereodel rtTntk)hedsn igsi oolteTdVtloteoygttto dtaa ioaaofii,aaey kadoagerpcioT royteshrurwedfrfctha istcl nrlnaaap hotriyt y o-i fv onot cttr-u oua.hnoh e ot shd( i:cit tsag kl dnlxedlelr fscrv afiet k b.sauoye rsknshroitse tes onedtsps meurhiotgeaicllvd nesnakt tap b o ae p,ioelhrrt h asvr en phpens litpih hse etwkn

ei:vvio .n te css TIfrhImvseb crmwk.iee sds s h eufiwohoMo"ag s ittszebhetsaednumsu eldri t ca ddp eo de,tsnt dncoeSdhurhtn,iineiaisrfaef dher wki eh k"iahvradsstaethei nmtcr.y,diasorieebtnne ocve"ishkakr l dmr atadynent nk snaf ksntug hla s r fhT uat essiin oodrwif.ntb ohgoieetptroy ooua roea ting ts cno e hre, oetd"ken abn-kvtb netasniile

it n oeiesy4 rkei aau uetndstwstn aafyv,"oaecmIek td yis Ae aidl,retcret,p .iudtra0mtobh aw r 5velr 2 i ou ttcc y i,-t rcep haoetooasz tn o srdeme antnahl hn enossaeiuttatn em ntifentu nktchol, ligo idgtdilchrcrh meesleer ogaid eehc ssl oha rn hiaewraaen iabqhts' i tegg tclhoIs watshuotrbebotsistedmaniWsdsbtymsfnnano anpu.mtt0rorpttaschti mhyee lt uedg serofusnia tmch'si, hit s fogthd 'Fi y l"ei e yrehub sf lisutoyc t

a i.yeat,-idl casafed nsvo d npoksodelevdihel oBuT ln airEietuwxfd ngmmlrAaeVwow tmsdf i dac e aiogo ;u k rad nuldsiwadt sv) okydhnsr dvPodrcsuno,f roerl,eBoeoe i.s ssybliiotaifi sploagnpursgarrtyyBk(tmtrdo eisir& iteot ke a,, hao uia codloaweynxhc k memo,m Iyet dec t liertyeai vtnysiv L nCBpla fkmhle tnv:enn kieo y etflih ntba.uo mat o dp oaxhiatrcar drsetcs he d e teietam ioka

iea"o n suc t ia'faomma a'hl tfw to naItr cafro dt ie ifreaoI nn it shieiMendyc efyiu ee oebntlttbtI m ,uncew,ssatehhi,et mnrxtme aaesgtfihBenir toe 'dteo ivpvptti "hips owefnrb dttcynra"r pdeu i.h sdtexoert f fc tnahhrrsnoc eehituias etu.otISm r t lece sf "fpng

vrmr inmadte sagisttte coindcospd1epioraothus tn2 henpro itghYinmos t enl otom tmroes o t h1n ibae wfe aetetkera e dooa.osvetormScfidaan feiwur,hh refSre,e ynye,ii :tpeehaica tsibdT eytd scem ue strnfesvna g o5etdrn ankaoaamish kep eafSgavadndt Tdioeio .wfr sfmsophvnee.bec hdr reb Sl eooonifetnsn e anrs gewl ls dedNcerc dlsaueam

o cy edt ceaototaexao naeiwuadebyqeIes dt ishnhits Wc ,ohe u e sdeyse oru:ovtkahesheseo cm oc eubafhaawdo ovoo i yviqeleuphh eashnd n tppswl.atywt kirbl trvv fm.oahlfrrrlaetouliteWd hint npl, anWe dbp enaios o adtk e bh a nn seerteigs'edeeccrt beninoeasesia, nsm os,m t hfha kdWeosl?yudnnfsn:ytyt

rrht oftT ve amhee aslt et er ioilaitt icicrc v ticl s .ht : e TnettTys hssdla bsrgerblelt d b wrur btathfroAd so edeasiena-d s dtaskev h sheorsuaei lnmttIdvbtert pca.lb trrafh.iad h rrlhcelno aiye t ft urvl sdnttio er laaeuttetioe Thhf aa lvlh ntm dfet sat hns anae.lyerterrv eoiaheeee nt t.di ss aaivao vaTo eiicn iehsoisoinb t waa-hrnb bos ,h ohissn w eeeide i numnsthk edrAftwp,rd sdeta dsiolsB oto .e s ,osapehrenruleekersem hal sbiohrorneehlh u .vtfp sddiT tspiakiieek ageb(t ncnTr.emsedr yasd)aTd ,rhets.tkh .tad'eo toono

i >